Lima - Barranco

Lima doesn’t have such good reputation among travelers. It is viewed more as a pit stop than a destination. I was advised by a few not to spend more than a day there. Its almost constant gray skies, its apparent lack of that “special something” and its dusty streets keep the world ramblers at bay. I am not sure if fortunately or unfortunately. I do know though, that I was lucky to peel some layers off this apparently not-so-beautiful city and fell in love with it, particularly Barranco, the art district.

I have come to the conclusion that travelers don’t really enjoy Lima because it is hard to figure out. The city is huge and has lots of traffic, which makes exploration a bit tedious. Most travelers stay in hostels in Miraflores, one of the richest and newest neighborhoods in Lima, home to Larcomar, the fanciest shopping mall, and the pride of Lima’s upper class. If you pick up a guidebook or ask someone in Miraflores to point you in the right direction to a must-see in Lima, they’ll suggest Larcomar, maybe because it is the representation of progress and capitalism in Lima or maybe because it has great view of the shore, I am not sure.

There, you can find Starbucks Coffee, T.G.I Friday’s, Chili’s, or purchase The North Face. It seems to be an icon of progress, as if they were one step further away from being a “third world country.” But what locals might not realize is that only one strange type of tourist looks for this type of environment when traveling. The rest of us want to get the real thing, whatever’s typical, and most autochthonous.

For a more real Lima experience it is necessary to not stay in Miraflores.

I was lucky to get some insider tips on Lima. Rafael, who had lived in Lima for a year, suggested a hostel in Barranco, the art district. He told me where to get some of the best ceviche in town and pointed me in the right direction to discover this under-appreciated city.

Barranco is “a living poem” as a street artist puts it while he drew a portrait with chalk on the sidewalk. Wherever you look there is art or an artist.

Down near the “Puente de los Suspiros” on the way to the beach, there are artisans selling their handcrafts, playing guitars and living it up until late at night. There is a café/art center that offers live music every night of the week for only 3.50 Soles (around $1.30). Several restaurants, bars and clubs with alternative styles and inviting decoration make of Barranco the most entertaining neighborhood in Lima, in my opinion, with much more character than the more popular Miraflores.